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| I have never had
an inclination to go to Bali before but my cousin Martha has two offspring
living there, Matthew who owns a restaurant called Alley Cats in Kuta
and Cynthia who is half owner of Geko
Dive in Padang Bai. Martha is the cousin with whom I will spend a
great deal of time when I visit the UK in June for three months and when
she said she was going to Bali to visit the kids I thought I would join
her there as a sort of practice run for traveling again. I am glad I went. |
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Kuta
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| Here is Martha on Kuta beach, the weather
was rather dull. Martha met me at the airport and we took a dodgy taxi
back to Matt's place where we stayed in one of the apartments over his
restaurant. What we got charged for a one way trip we later found out
we should have got a return trip for the same price. As they say in Cairns
"ya get that ey!" In the end we are only talking AUS$6.00 so
no great loss. Martha lives in Oxford in Old Blightly (UK). |
This is Matt and Caroline at
Alley Cats, don't they look happy ? Alley Cats is a noodle free zone and
serves English food and curries including a Sunday roast. It is open for
breakfast, lunch and dinner (all day food really) and according to Matt
it is the cheapest bar in Bali. Thanks Matt for your hospitality and wonderful
food. If you find yourself in Kuta, Alley Cats is located down the alley
off Poppies Lane II nearest Jl.Legian. Just look for the Union Jack hanging
in Poppies Lane II |
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| Martha asked me if it was ok
to stay in Kuta another day as her friend Jan was to arrive from the UK
the day after me. We wandered the streets of Kuta trying to dodge the
street hawkers and I learned to say Tidak Mau Terima Kasih to the hawkers
and Jalan Jalan to offers of transport. I saw lots of lovely doors I wanted
to take home but of course they wouldn't fit in my luggage and the owners
of the buildings might have objected but it gave me inspiration that I
need a flashy portal for my home. I was a bit tired and we stopped for
a drink in a restaurant and afterwards flagged down a passing pony cart
and took a short scenic drive back past Kuta beach. The last photo is
one of the pony who toted us around. |
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Padang Bai and day trips |
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| We waited in Kuta for Jan to arrive the next day and for her to recover from the flight from the UK. I had not met Jan before and, as it turned out, we got on very well and had loads of laughs. The laughs began when we picked her up from the airport late on Monday night and she told us that two nice men came up and took her bags, wheeling them through the airport for her. Then she realised they wanted money and she offered them some Rupiah not realising how much it was but they kept indicating they wanted more. In the end she was not sure how much she had paid them but it was her first experience of being fleeced in Bali because she is such a nice person and not mistrusting at all. This is Jan standing outside the Puri Rai Hotel Temple, she is still rather befuddled from her journey and wishing for the sun to come out to rid herself of her old blightly pallor ( nightclub tan) The statues in Bali were wonderful, I have
some friends hooked on Balinese gardens who just love going to Bali for
a look. Although we sell many of these statues and garden features in
Oz there are thousands more to be had in Bali. There is a statue underneath
the photo of Jan typical of a temple statue, not sure of its significance
with feet hanging out the bottom but my real favourite is underneath the
swimming pool statue above. A little more than life sized, these horses
and chariot would probably put my baggage overweight just a bit. Because
cousin Cynthia's new house wasn't ready we stayed at the Puri Rai Hotel
in Padang Bai and these were just a few of their statues, the horses graced
the third swimming pool and are magnificent. Puri means house in Balinese,
Rai is just a name. |
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| This is Wayan Joker who, among
other things, earns his living as a driver and guide. He was a nice, safe,
polite driver who opened our doors and helped us with all kinds of things
like using ATM's and finding out what Jan's Indosat mobile phone was trying
to tell her. He had a very good sense of humour which was a real bonus
too. He was so helpful I wanted to take him home with me to drive me around
in Oz and open my car doors, if it wasn't for his wife and two kids I
might have risked the excess baggage thing at the airport.
Here is his Web site if you are looking for a reliable driver, organiser
and guide in Bali, he lives in Padang Bai but goes everywhere and has
lots of contacts. Wayan Joker took us on a tour which started in Tenganan.
Described as a Bali Aga village (the original Bali) and a living museum
as the people live in a very ancient and traditional way with the exception
of the odd motor bike here and there. In the second photo this nice chap
met us at the entrance and took us on a tour of the village explaining
all about their way of life, their culture and showing us the walls made
of mud and stone which were ancient. |
He then politely asked if we
would like to look inside his house and I thought "that's nice"
but of course there was a shop in there which sold the fruits of his family's
labour. That was ok, I had come here to buy traditional woven cloth anyway.
The second photo is Jan trying to make her mind up whereas Hazel spotted
an orange peacock on a black background with gold threads right through
it and a nice black and silver shawl for Brenda who was looking after
my palace at home. In the right hand corner you can see the family courtyard
and grandma who is one of the weavers. In the village were lots of woven
cages with cockerels in them, one painted pink. Seems there was cock fighting
later that day and people would come from miles around, did we want to
stay ? Their cock fighting is like our horse racing only it is much cheaper
to keep chickens than horses. We didn't stay we had temples to see. |
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| This is Tirta
Gangga near Amlapura, a water palace built by the last king of
Karangasem as a resting place. It had a swimming pool which visitors can
use but Jan and I didn't fancy it. Apparently this water palace is administered
by two different groups of people and the back half was closed the day
we went, the gardener said that the two groups couldn't agree. It was
nice anyway and makes you want to re landscape the old yard at home, not
sure where I would fit the horses and the water palace, I only have a
small yard but there is nothing like inspiration is there? The second
photo underneath shows the buildings we didn't get close too and there
are many more pools to the palace. We saw another water palace on our
journey a few days later and Martha said the flowers which adorned the
magnificent fence looked like startled daisies, they did too. |
This is Pura
(Temple) Agung Besakih. The weather was dull and rainy so the photos
are a bit dark. Before we pulled into the car park Wayan Joker said he
had some things to tell us. He said we would need a sarong and sash to
get into the temple and although we didn't need a guide if we didn't get
one some people may say we could not enter certain areas so he said it
was a good idea to hire a guide. Then he said the guides would ask for
too much money and that we shouldn't pay more than 50,000 rupiahs. When
we pulled into the car park the car was surrounded by small boys with
umbrellas pulling faces at us. I freaked and said what's going on and
Wayan said they just wanted to rent us their umbrellas. Very enterprising
the Balinese, always ready to fill a niche market. |
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| Jan and I headed for a sarong
shop conveniently located near the car park for unsuspecting tourists.
I mooched around and found a bright orange sarong with embroidery on it
and was quoted 100,000 rupiah (about AUS$12) they are much cheaper away
from the temple. I put it down and walked towards the front of the shop
when the price dropped to 80,000. Jan eventually found a bright green
sarong she liked, it was exactly like mine but the price for hers was
120,000 rp. we all haggled in the shop me holding my sarong out to show
it was the same as Jan's but they did not want to drop the price. Eventually
they dropped it to 100k rp because they knew Jan only wanted that one
colour sarong. First hurdle negotiated we went looking for tickets which
was easy, the price was on them so no haggling. Then we walked towards
the temple and were guided over to an official looking man at a table
surrounded by lots of other men who were just standing about. I must say
he played the part well, he was probably only a ticket collector but he
had the demeanor of the polisi. He said we must have a guide and that
as an example the price for the guide would be 360 euros (that is over
AUS$600). I said that is too much, he said it was only an example, I said
not a very good one is it and offered him the 50,000 rupiah's Wayan had
suggested, he said not for two people. You have no idea how this charade
went on but fortunately it didn't happen all over Bali. Eventually we
got our guide for 100,000 rp, about AUS$12. |
Here he is with Jan at the
top of the temple complex.(and her in her new outfit, she had to buy a
blouse as well to cover her shoulders) He dressed me in the sarong and
sash properly and he carried my umbrella. Wayan had given us one umbrella
and Jan hired one from a boy who wanted 10,000 rp after he had offered
it to me for 5k, so I saved her some money there. Once we had negotiated
the guide all these fellas that were standing about rushed forward and
started offering us motor bike rides up the hill to the beginning of the
temple. More haggling, Jan did better than me this time she got her ride
for 20k rp while I paid 30k. When we got up the top the hawkers started
in and Jan figured if she bought something they would go away. She managed
to haggle 10 postcards down to a half price and then the woman took her
money ripped the postcard bundle in half and handed her 5 cards. The transaction
bought more hawkers flocking around Jan who was standing there in shock
at having gained nothing in the haggling over the postcards. We then had
to buy offerings, or so we thought, so more money was handed over and
we followed our guide up the stairs to the temple. As he was going he
was pointing and saying things and Jan said, "can you speak English
please" and I said he was speaking English. As guides go he wasn't
all that flash, he didn't seem to know which gods were represented by
statues and made it up as he went along and, of course, Jan couldn't understand
a word he said. |
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There
was a ceremony going on in the temple so there were lots of Balinese people
in traditional ceremonial clothes but our guide didn't know what the ceremony
was about. We actually didn't find out what any of the ceremonies were
about in Bali, they just have lots of them. Anyway we gave our offerings
and got blessed with some water on our heads and hands and rice on our
third eye then proceeded up the stairs towards heaven. While we were standing
close to what we would call the altar with our offerings still in their
plastic bags, our guide took half of mine and half of Jan's and handed
them to some other guide who had two Japanese people without offerings.
What a cheek said Jan but we didn't think it appropriate to make a scene
while others were praying. This temple has many temples within it, one
main one in the middle and lots of others owned by different families
of repute or means. After we had ridden back down to the car park on the
back of the bikes Jan and I walked side by side in silence for a second
and then burst out laughing together and she asked me if I though we had
been fleeced. We sure had been but we also got blessed so that had to
count for something. It wasn't that bad a fleecing, all up for me it cost
AUS$24.00 it just seemed a lot more because we were always handing over
money. |
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Here we are at the
Monkey Forest in Ubud. I feel a bit guilty here, Jan it's confession
time. I know what happens when you walk through a field full of horses
with a bucket so when I let you carry the bananas I knew it was you who
would end up with monkeys on your head. I tried to help her out folks
but when I went to get the monkey off her she shouted "no, take a
photograph" Always one to do as I am told,
here they are. |
The monkey with the plastic
bag of bananas was an alpha male, he spotted Jan and just waited till
she got close and snatched them from her hand. The monkeys at this point
were as overwhelming as the street hawkers on cruise ship day but it was
fun and I just love monkeys. Next photo there is a cute baby and an interesting
private house at the edge of the forest. |
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Back in Padang Bai this is cruise ship day. The village is usually quiet but one day I walked out into the street and was swamped by hawkers. The place was a madhouse with people, entertainment, police and buses. The street hawkers flock to anywhere they might make money and they were so prolific this day is was scary and even saying tidak mau (no need) didn't deter them. Needless to say I had to rescue Jan at one point when she was surrounded by them. This lady on the left was in the streets most days begging for money. I asked one of the hotel employees what her story was and he said her husband worked in the rice fields and didn't earn enough to feed them so she begs for the difference. Jan took this photo because of the beautiful baby who is holding the money if you look closely. The statue underneath this photo is the main one for the hotel Puri Rai, another excess baggage temptation for me. One of the hotel employees told me it was Vishnu. |
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| This is cousin Cynthia's house,
still under construction although they were living in it by the time this
photo was taken. It's in Mimba in the hills
behind Padang Bai. It's pretty impressive and it is called Rumah Manga
(mango house). To get there we have to double on the back of someone's
motor bike and there was a scary hill just outside Padang Bai. Sitting
on the stairs in the second photo is Ketut, Cynthia's helper and she is
an expert on a bike I can tell you. |
The top picture is Coral (Cynthia's partner) Thomas, her son, Martha, Cynthia hidden behind Jan at the first official entertaining meal cooked at Rumah Manga. It was yummy too. Thanks Cynthia, Coral and Ketut and also Martha for making me Watermelon Juice 'cos I don't drink. Coral is also a dive instructor for Geko Dive The second photo is the gang at Omang Omang restaurant at Padang Bai, Matt and Caroline came up from Kuta for a couple of days. |
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| Here is Cynthia and Thomas doing the peace sign. Thomas is very clever and also very cute. The second photo is of a ferry and its there because Padang Bai is a fishing village and a ferry port to other islands. It is also close to good diving. |
I liked this ferry because is is very colourful and, as most of you know, I like a bit of colour. Didn't see a purple one though. The second photo is people sitting around at the ferry port, it is always full of people and Cynthia told me they hang out there to do business and get work. |
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Puri Rai Hotel Pool (well one of three) and our room. Picture left is the girl who placed the daily offerings in the hotel. Balinese are mostly Hindu and you can see evidence of offerings all over the place, little baskets of flowers and rice and foliage placed at all entrances. The second photo on the right is of the altar or place for offerings and prayers, they are found in all buildings and in this case individual rooms. Its nice to be blessed each day with these offerings to the gods. In the second picture you can just see the yellow cloth of the altar for our room |
People engaging in spiritual practices or entering temples wear a sarong and sash like this girl. For ceremonies the clothes are usually fancier. The second photo is a close up of the altar with the incence burning |
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This is Amlapura.
We went there one Sunday as Martha wanted to go to church and I wanted
to look for fabulous fabric and Cynthia said they had some good stuff
here. We dropped Martha at the church and then Wayan drove us into the
middle of town. |
Jan and I ferreted around and
found this narrow entrance to a market which was very dark and also had
narrow aisles. I got a bit claustro so didn't stay there long. The narrowness
of things always got to me, narrow streets and narrow footpaths, usually
too narrow to be of much good. |
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| This is Kebun
Impian at Seraya Barat. Kebun Impian
offers bungalow accommodation and also has a restaurant. We were there
because the owners, John and his wife Wayan, are friends of Cynthia's
and Martha had also met them so while we were out that way we called in.
(Wayan means first born so there are a lot of them). When Martha asked
Wayan Joker if we could go there he thought we wanted to go to some place
in Java but when she showed him the address it turned out not to be in
Java after all. The property was magic, rather traditional Balinese and
just gorgeous. We sat in the structure behind Martha (a bale bengong)
and sipped fruit juice and talked. I could have stayed there forever.
The beach had round volcanic rocks on it and when the water receded it
sounded like thunder. Jan and I took videos but the sound didn't turn
out as good as it was in real life. If you want to look at the website
it is property 65990. |
I needed some
money but the ATM in Padang Bai was not working and no one knew when it
would be. Martha and Jan were diving so I decided to find Wayan Joker
and go to Klunkung. While
I was waiting for the ATM all of a sudden there were police everywhere
and a big black car pulled up. I just took pictures and Wayan went closer
to have a Doris (look). Turned out to be Megawati Sukarnoputri the 4th
President of Indonesia who is currently, according to the Doris's in the
street, the doctor of the current President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono.
That is her at the front of the second picture. Bit of excitement, being
blonde, I pressed Indonesian instead of English at the ATM and so couldn't
understand a word it was asking me. Thank God for Wayan who is much more
sensible than I. I thought it was asking did I want English or Indonesian
currency and didn't even consider it might be asking me what language
I wanted to do my ATMing in. Doh! |
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| On the day I
left there was a ceremony. Jan asked the girl in the Puri Rai restaurant
what this one was about but the answer was vague. As far as I could tell
they closed the road along the beach and family groups walked up the road
and up the hill to the temple (or one of them) and their food was blessed
and then they all walked back down the hill again, presumably they went
off to eat it. I was always fascinated by their ability to carry things
on their head without even holding it, Jan and I decided we must go back
one day and get some lessons. I took a video of them walking up the road
and it is way to big to load up here but there was a constant stream of
people walking up and back all in their best clothes with sarongs and
men in their little hats. The chaps in the second photo are guarding the
road to make sure no one drives in. It is ok to drive out though - not
sure why. Wayan parked his vehicle in the hotel car park early before
they closed the road so we wouldn't have to lug my bags through the throng
of people. |
I was fascinated by this whole family who were obviously going to get on that ute/pickup for the ride home. I suppose they will manage, they got there the same way after all. The second picture is obviously a street with loads of motor bikes parked in it. Usually this street was quite empty and my fascination with this shot is how the hell do you tell which is your bike. I was going to hire a bike and do the Bali thing properly but I was a bit worried about leaving it somewhere and not being able to identify it. The ceremony began the day before with a procession I missed and a man chanting over the loudspeaker from the temple on the hill. A German man at our hotel complained that it kept him awake all night but I didn't notice. I have this chanting and the procession of people on video but can't upload it here without some editing as it is a big file. you will just have to believe me when I say it was an experience. |
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| They have some interesting
looking fishing boats which Martha said look like insects on the water.
They go fishing early and then come back about 8 - 9 am and dismantle
the boats taking the poles off them and carting the outboard motor to
their home. It was not unusual to see two men manually carrying a small
outboard motor up the street. Most of the boats have nice names and some
have faces painted on them as you can see in the second photo. Jan and
I were sitting in a restaurant having lunch when she took this photo,
we also bought a couple of silly hats from a street hawker from the relative
safety of the restaurant, at least you dont get things thrust up your
nose from that distance. The locals who aren't hawkers are very friendly
and helpful although Jan did get a bit cynical after a while and thought
that anyone who asked her a question was out to sell her something. Some
were, they want to know how long you are staying so they can sell you
their wares before you leave, the last day or the day before usually softens
most tourists and it worked in our case. One woman I came to call "her
in the hat" was so aggressive I faced her down one day. She changed
her tack and began blowing kisses at us as we sat in the restaurants which
were open to the streets. The day before I left she managed to sell me
two sarongs, they were beautiful with gold thread through them the kind
people wore to ceremonies and just AUS$8.50 each. |
Here are the intrepid divers, they look the part but today were only going to play in the swimming pool. Jan said her course was great and she was glad she had come to Bali for the diving. They are standing in the shop door of Geko Dive see below for Jan and Martha's diving experience In the second photo a lady is selling fish to the Puri Rai restaurant at dusk. She just walked up with a big bowl on her head full of fish and the scales were laid out and a deal done. The fish looks very fresh and tasty, we ate quite a lot at the Puri Rai because it had so many good things on the menu, Jan even asked me to take pictures of her dinners, one was Pineapple fried rice with chicken served in a pineapple and the other was a sizzling fish kebab dish, both looked too good to eat. A main meal in the Puri Rai and similar retaurants was 32 to 38,000 rupiahs about AUS$3.90 to $4.60 (US$4.10, UK2.10). Wayan Joker told me it costs about 30,000 rp to feed his family of 4 per week unless there is a ceremony which puts the cost up to as much as 100,000 rp. |
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Jan said: It gave me the biggest high I've felt since I don't know when!. But it was also very scarey, it being my first time and all!.It was amazing to be swimming with all the sea life in such clear water in the Blue Lagoon,which was only a 5 minute boat ride from Padang Bai. We saw all sorts of different fish and beautiful coral. To name a few, there were star fish, garden eels, trumpet fish, moray eels, titan tiger fish, sting ray, crocodile fish, oriental sweet lips, box fish, puffer fish, lion fish, leaf scorpion fish, sea slugs, big and small neon fish. It was amazing and I can't wait to do it again!. Like I said it was scarey but I felt safe knowing that Coral was always with us he is a very good diving instuctor. Quite an apt name really for what he does for a living, and boy what a job! Martha said:
The first time I went to Bali in 2002 I did an introductory dive. It was
wonderful swimming among brilliantly coloured fish and strange sea creatures.
I decided to become a qualified diver. This was third time lucky. In 2004
I was smitten by Bali belly. You don't want that in a wet suit! In 2005
I had a chest infection. You can't dive with a cold because the air in
your lungs and other air spaces can't get out as it expands when you come
up from the bottom and that can cause serious damage. This time the first
few dives went well. Jan and I practiced in a swimming pool. We learned
how to use the equipment and practiced skills such as swimming underwater
without a supply of air so we would know what to do if our air failed
to come through the equipment. We also studied videos and books so we
could understand what happens to our bodies at depth and how to ensure
we are safe at all times. Then the exciting bit. Out of the swimming pool
and into the sea. |
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| I have hundreds of photos but can't show them all here. On my last day Wayan Joker took Jan, Martha and I into Kuta where we planned to spend some quality time with Matthew at Alley Cats. The accommodation wasn't available that night so Martha decided that she and Jan would go back to Padang Bai and went off to hire a driver to take me to the airport and them back to Padang Bai. As we stood at the end of the alley on Poppies II we waited and waited and the man in the transport booth on the corner decided to ask what we were doing there, we told him and it turned out he was from the same company, although Martha had booked and paid elsewhere. He got on the phone and yabbered in Indonesian and yabbered some more and then suddenly he left and then next thing we know he came past on the back of a motor bike with a can of petrol and said something and roared off. Seems the original driver was not going to make it in time for me to get to the airport so he organised another driver who had no petrol. I was a bit oblivious to the extent he had gone to to help me out and as we waited and waited and then along came a barong. No it isnt something you smoke or ride in it is one of those animal things which snaps and drives away evil spirits, it stopped in front of us giving a great photo opportunity but my camera was packed away in locked bags and Jan's ran out of batteries. It just stood and snapped at us until they gave some money to an orphange they were collecting for. Meanwhile, back at the corner of the lane and Poppies II waiting for motor vehicle to take me to airport, our man appeared in a Toyota Kijang with two other chaps all very smiling and happy. He said his friend would ride with the driver to Padang Bai in case he fell asleep on the way back or got lost. It was a bit like a circus but he did get me to the airport on time and Jan and Martha made it back to Padang Bai even though Jan was a bit dubious at the time. I wished I had realised how much trouble that guy had gone to so I could have thanked him. Maybe next time.... |
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This photo is scanned from one of the free guide books of the barong. A barong dance is performed going usually from one house to another but businesses also like the barong dance to be performed outside to ensure more customers in the future. I left Bali on the 27 Feb missing Nyepi day on the 8 March. On this day all the evil spirits are flying around and the people stay indoors and are quiet and use no lights so that they do not attract the evil spirits. Even tourists have to adhere to this and it is practiced all over Bali. Martha was at Cynthia's, she said they were allowed one small light because of Thomas so they chilled out, talked and played scrabble. Matthew went to one of the Gili Islands which is not affected by Nyepi. |
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