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Just
kidding, Kauai is called The Garden Island although I didn't see
too many gardens until I went to the other side of the Island
but I did see chickens (moa), lots and lots of moa all running
wild around the island.
I was told that Kauai was more authentic Hawaiian and less spoiled
by tourism but I did not feel the same spirit of Aloha as I had
on O'ahu and in Waikiki, this surprised me a bit. I struck my
first problem when I got off the plane and wandered out to the
transport area, there was a largish information centre all neatly
stocked with brochures but no one was in the booth.
I needed a shuttle, I had read that there was one on Kauai, there
were no official staff anywhere and no sign of a shuttle service,
all the other passengers seemed to be local they climbed in cars
and were off. Eventually I asked a lady who had a uniform on who
was leaning against a post what was the go with shuttles. She
said where you staying, I said Aston Islander on the Beach she
said they don't have a shuttle. Great. I said is there a general
shuttle, no she said with no further information coming I asked
how I might get to my hotel so she said have to get a taxi, I
looked around and there were no taxi's so I said so and she reluctantly
added you have to use the telephone on the side of the information
booth. I did that and did arrive at my hotel only to be met with
some very uninformative reception staff.
I am not kidding, I felt most unwelcome and quite confused. The
hotel didn't have a restaurant or room service so I asked where
could I eat. I was told I could drive to restaurants, I don't
have a car, then the receptionist pointed towards the main road
and said there is the shops our there. There was no information
in the room either but I did wander out the front to find there
was a sort of shopping mall area which had some takeaway shops,
a couple of small restaurants and an overpriced convenience store.
I am sure Kauai is warm and welcoming if you have a package tour
booked and other people didn't seem to have a problem but the
revues in this hotel on Trip Advisor were not all that good. No
one said I would have problems getting information at the airport
though, if it was a third world country I wouldn't gripe but I
kind of felt like I was in a third world county when in fact I
was in the United States of America. They did have a nice pool
and a bar area as well as laundry facilities and a kitchenette
but my request for tea bags from room maids and from reception
and was met with blank stares. Do check with Trip
Advisor before booking anything, this hotel did have some
negative comments when I booked it but there is not a great deal
to choose from on Kauai and it is centrally located at Kapa'a
and it is on the beach. Apparently the apartments are individually
owned so you take pot luck as to the condition inside.
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One
thing in the hotel's favour is that they had a tour company called
Pleasant
Holidays in the foyer and they were the nicest and most helpful
people. Momi was on duty the first day and helped me book tours
to Waimea Canyon with Polynesian
Adventure Tours, a
Best of Kauai tour and my return shuttle to the airport, apparently
there is a general shuttle so the lady at the airport was wrong
and the web information was right. Don't bank on it though, try
and arrange transport before you go, driving is best if you feel
confident in driving on the right hand side of the road. |
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Next
day I headed out on my Waimea Canyon tour with a whole pile of
other people in a small tour bus and a driver called Vinnie. Vinnie
was a local and was quite entertaining, he could also give first
hand information about the changes that had occurred on Kauai
since his birth. He said that sugar cane was the main income of
Kauai when he was young and people like his family lived in Sugar
Cane company houses in compounds that were called camp no 1 etc.
He said he lived in Camp No 5 which he said had been demolished
but he showed us one of the remaining camps. The housing looked
like public type housing, all the same and not very big with small
backyards too I snapped a photo out the bus window. It is not
very riveting so I won't include it here.
Kauai,
the chicken or garden island, is the oldest island in the chain
which were once named The Sandwich Islands by dear old Captain
James Cook who also discovered Australia. The land mass of Hawaii
is a product of a fault in the earth's crust, a great chasm to
the earth's core spews magma and then lava out and builds land
and as the pacific tectonic plate moves north the volcanoes become
extinct and new ones form in their wake. Kauai is off the fault
area and is a well established island in terms of soil and vegetation
and also the erosion that occurs over millions of years. Those
interested in the Volcanic hot spot and tectonic plate of Hawaii
can find information here.
Polynesians
came here about 800 years ago and brought chickens and pigs and
some of their own vegetation, later settlers bought their own
bits of home with them too so it is an island made up of lots
of things that were once not native. I guess that can be said
of most places on earth but Hawaii is newly inhabited enough for
us to know where things came from. Can you imagine a place without
nasties, no spiders and no mosquitoes, actually there was one
nasty, it is a sort of large centipede about nine inches long
which became quite a problem in the sugar cane days when these
things used to sting the workers. Fleas, rats and mosquitoes came
with the ships. They had a rat problem so they found out that
Mongoose can kill rats so they imported some of those, only to
find out that rats were nocturnal and mongoose diurnal and so
never the twain did meet. The island of Kauai has its fair share
of Mongoose as does Maui and Hawaii. Cute little furry things
but Vinnie said don't mess with them, he also said don't mess
with them chickens either, especially the cockerels. I must confess
to seeing only one mongoose there and did not get bitten or stung
by anything else but then I didn't go camping or hiking.
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Waimea
Canyon is probably not as spectacular as the Grand Canyon but it
has the most beautiful colours and shapes in it so I have put a
few big photos in here so you can enjoy them too. On the way here
we drove through some cute little towns one called Hanapepe and
I would have liked to stop and browse the shops but you know what
bus tours are like. We were at 3,400 ft at this lookout, it looked
big to me but I was later to go even higher but more about that
on the Big Island. I came across of few new things in Hawaii, one
was the Mongoose and another was called a "host free lunch"
that is to say you buy your own. Usually on tours you get lunch
included but not on Kauai so if you take a bus tour take your money
with you too. |
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Hawaii
is an active persons paradise, there are hikes and bike rides and
quad bike activities and canoe tours and all those sports involving
the sea such as surfing and windsurfing and there is horse riding
too. I am not an active person so didn't do any of these things
but for those who are interested you can hike to some very interesting
and beautiful places. |
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The
shell necklaces are from the island of Ni'ihau also known as Forbidden
Island. It is privately owned and the people who live there live
a very traditional life. It is called forbidden island because it
comes with a set of rules which have been made to keep the island
authentic. Technology is lacking there and the 200 or so people
speak Hawaiian, people of other races are not permitted to live
there. You can visit Ni'ihau now courtesy of the owners and here
is their web site. The tiny shells are found only on Ni'ihau and
are made into traditional Lei necklaces some costing thousands of
dollars. The necklaces in the pictures above are not for sale and
are worth a small fortune. They did have some others for sale in
a large gift shop which was part of our afternoon tea stop. The
web site tells you about these unique necklaces and there are some
for sale also. |
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These
three photos are from the Po'ipu Beach area. There are some
resorts in this region, Kauai does not seem to have a main
town as such just little districts where resorts or shopping
centres are. From this area you would catch a boat to see
the Na Pali coast line which is not accessible by vehicle.
The boat tours include activities like snorkeling. You can
also view the Na Pali coast by helicopter. I didn't do either
but I did see some other beautiful places on Hawaii. I don't
mind bus tours, this was a smallish bus and we had a great
driver as most people who do this kind of work tend to like
entertaining. Vinnie was great because he got very enthusiastic
about "his" island and he was wishing he could take
us around the other side to Hanalei. I wished he could have
done so too. Talking of tours, I could not do one tour with
this company because it was booked out so it is a good idea
to pre book tours if you visit Kauai rather than miss out.
Another thing that wasn't mentioned in information web sites |
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That
is Vinnie the driver. I did enjoy his tour, Kauai is famous
for having appeared in many movies, lots and lots of movies
have been made here and there is actually a tour which takes
you around the places that appear in movies. Jurassic Park
was one, in fact the end of the filming was interrupted by
Hurricane Iniki. We drove past the meadow where they where
running from the dinosaurs. Vinnie told lots of amusing stories,
he said the locals all wanted to see the dinosaurs so they
drove to the site and the cars were parked all along the roads
the the police had to come and sort out the chaos but they
didn't see any dinosaurs cos they were all inserted electronically
afterwards. He also said he had been hired as to prevent fires,
i.e he had to put any grass fires out that started and was
given a small backpack spray which he said wouldn't' stop
anything so he just prayed that a fire wouldn't start. He
considered himself luckier than the guy who was hired to mow
the meadow prior to shooting the film, he was given an ordinary
lawn mower and the guinea grass was taller than a person.
He said in all the movies locals got hired as extra's and
everyone wanted to be in movies so there was a lot of competition
for the parts. Other Movies and shows filmed on Kauai were
Elvis' Blue Hawaii, Fantasy Island, South Pacific, Wackiest
Ship in the Army, Beachhead, Raiders of the Lost Ark and some
of the Lost series. |
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The
picture above is a birthing stone site, it does not look the same
as the one I saw on O'ahu but it is recognised as the site for
Royal Births on Kauai. Vinnie said they had a ritual that they
threw the umbilical chord on a stone and if the rats ate it the
child would die but if the rats left it alone the child would
live. Could be a local legend as I had not heard that anywhere
else. Behind this site is a pathway which leads to a rise over
the valley. Vinnie said they rang bell stones when a child was
born so the people in the villages would know. He said when he
was a kid they used to run around hitting the stones to find the
ones which rang, they rang down the valley and he and his friends
got into trouble.
The
picture on the right is a canoe stop for the canoe tours, it is,
I was told, a re-enacted village (just like I had been wanting
to see) but this tour didn't go there, nor did any of the other
bus type tours, you could drive there or go in a canoe.
Basically
one gets a ride up the Wailua River, the only navigable waterway
in the whole of Hawaii but even that doesn't go too far but it
does go to the fern Grotto (ma'ama'akua lono). When you arrive
at the jetty you walk through a rather nice area of rainforest
which has been planted out with tropical plants so lots of colour.
There were wild moa with chicks of course and we could hear the
wild pigs snuffling around in the undergrowth, fortunately they
didn't come near us. The Fern Grotto is an old lava tube upon
which a lot of ferns have grown. You are romantically serenaded
Hawaiian style, you can see the musicians in the photo below.
They played the Hawaiian wedding song and I didn't think much
of the singers voice but there you go. On the way back they were
on our boat and sang and danced all the way home and yes, they
did make people get up and do the hula. The grotto was pretty
but the whole boat ride and thing was very cheesy if you ask me.
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on
September 11, 1992 Hurricane Iniki hit the island and caused major
damage. Steven Spielberg was filming Jurassic Park at the time
so the cast and crew were stranded as communications and transport
were brought to a halt. Extensive damage was done to the island
and 6 people died. Cyclone warnings were late in coming so people
were not prepared although it would have been difficult to be
prepared with such a hurricane hitting the island directly. We
heard a lot about this cyclone on the tours, here we were in 2009,
17 years later and we were still hearing about why this building
or that building had not been restored, removed or rebuilt. It
was like one giant excuse as to why certain things were not up
to scratch. We passed the Coco Palms Resort several times, it
was the hotel made famous in Elvis' movie Blue Hawaii but it was
a boarded up wreck and an eyesore. You would have thought that
some effort would have been made in 17 years to tidy things up
and not use the hurricane as an excuse for so long.
I
must confess to being surprised at the dwellings in Hawaii in
view of the fact that hurricanes head their way probably more
often than they do in Cairns where I live. The houses looked like
they were made of packing case material, some kind of timber with
strips over the top and the roofs had tiles made of composite
material. They looked flimsy. In contrast are the dwellings in
Far North Queensland which have a building code which makes them
more cyclone resistant. Corrugated iron roofs which extra reinforcement
on the first row of screws to stop the wind ripping the tin off
and walls made of concrete blocks which have cement poured into
the outer walls makes the buildings here better able to withstand
cyclonic winds. I had often wandered why tornadoes reduced houses
to matchsticks, seems like they are built of light material and
not designed to withstand these weather conditions. How odd it
was, I would have thought that more substantial buildings would
have been designed to withstand hurricanes but not so.
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The
next day I took the Kauai North Shore Limo tour with another set
of people. I like these little tours you get to talk to people
and find out where they are from. I had (a host free) lunch with
our driver whose name I cannot remember and three people from
the Bronx so I took the opportunity to ask them if it is true
that New Yorkers don't talk to each other but if someone is from
out of town they are very helpful towards them. They laughed and
said it was true, Angel said he doesn't want to encourage local
people in NY to talk to him cos they might be hard to get rid
of that is why they don't talk to or help each other out but are
quite willing to go out of their way for a stranger. They were
on holidays so were quite friendly probably in the knowledge that
none of us would turn up on their doorstep looking for a handout
any time soon. They also said that the neighbourhood was rough
but they had grown up there but they didn't venture out into the
streets at night. I guess you get used to the place you live in
and adjust your behaviour accordingly. The pictures above and
the one on the left below are from the bird sanctuary, there is
also a lighthouse there but it was a bit boring so I didn't include
it here. There were birds everywhere, some flying overhead and
pooping from a great height and some nesting in the ground, I
took a photo of a bird in the ground but missed my subject cos
the sun was too bright but never mind. The photos are a bit small
to see them but there were white patches where birds were nesting
along the cliffs, not as many as I saw in Skellig Michael in Ireland
but still plenty.
We
drove around the shore towards Princeville resorts and Hanalei
and the coastline just got better and better. All the islands
I saw were like this, they have a sort of boring side and a spectacular
side. The photo below right is an example of early aqua culture,
the Hawaiians dig areas out next to a river or find one naturally
and insert bamboo poles or sticks along the mouth, the small fish
swim in and they get fed in the reservoir and then are too fat
to swim out so it forms a nice holding pen of fish which can be
caught and eaten at leisure. I saw one of these on the Big Island
too not quite so elaborate but it was a coastal holding pen -
very clever in the days before refrigeration you had fresh fish
you didn't have to go out and catch each day.
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The
houses at left are some we saw in the Princeville region
which is a posh area of resorts and it is very nice country.
I took this picture because I couldn't believe all the houses
were identical and they all had white motor vehicles too.
These houses were made of timber with smaller timber strips
along the joins, I really couldn't imagine living in this
estate but the region itself was very picturesque.
The
photo below is of a baby albatross who was sitting in the
front driveway of a home. The driver said that they nest
on the front lawns of people's houses and the parents fly
in and out to feed the chicks, this one is about ready to
fend for itself so the parents will abandon it one day and
not come with food so it will have to learn to fly and feed
itself. Sounds a bit harsh to me. The sighting of this bird
was the highlight of my Kauai experience but I also felt
sorry for it and wondered if it would need therapy for its
abandonment issues.
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All
day I had been looking forward to seeing Hanalei (right) as
it was a promised visit on this tour. We had to drop people
off at the airport because they were having a flight sightseeing
tour and joining us later but their flight was delayed which
means so were we and we saw one or two too many waterfalls
while we waited for them. I didn't mention that this tour
also featured another cheesy trip up the Wailua River to the
Fern Grotto so I kind of felt like a lot of the day was wasted
but there is another tour you can take which would not double
up but you are advised to book before you arrive in Kauai.
By the time we arrived in Hanalei I was pretty tired and we
had dropped off all the other passengers in Princeville. The
scenery was breathtaking here but the beach was crowded with
cars as there had been a canoe race or something. I would
have loved to take some nice photos but they were all towards
the sun and would not have turned out. It was beautiful though
and I saw the dragon (puff the magic dragon lives here or
so the story goes) |
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It
is not likely I will return to Kauai, I didn't find it good value
for money but I am glad I saw the Canyon, a bit of Hanalei and
the albatross. If I were to return I would probably hire a car,
there are not that many roads to get mixed up on for a left hand
drive person and I would head to Hanalei with a short stop at
the re enactment village and the birthing stones I saw on the
road to the Opaeaka'a falls. Hanalei, as we drove through it,
looked like a quaint villagey kind of place not unlike Kuranda,
slightly bohemian and sort of touristy. It looked interesting.
I loved the country around there, the beaches were gorgeous although
we did not really stop at any of them we had been so badly delayed
in the early part of the day there was no time later on. I would
stay in Hanalei and probably enjoy myself. Sandra and David from
Oahu, lived here and said it was the pick of places on Kauai and
I can believe it.
Next
stop Maui, I loved Lahaina and had a great time on Maui
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| Travel
with me to ............ |
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Hilo, Hawaiian Tropical Botanic Gardens, Honomu
Village, Night Flight over Volcano, Day flight over volcano, Mauna
Kea observatories, native village and Holualoa |
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Holualoa, Kailua Kona, Kilauea Iki, Pu'ukohola
Heiau |
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Lahaina, The Road to Hana and some beautiful
sunsets |
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The Chicken Island - Oops I mean the garden isle |
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I spent 6 days on Oahu and in Waikiki and 2 days
on the way out |
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I spent 10 days here having fun with Martha and
Jan |
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A stopover on my way to and from England |
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Crikey !! The Late Steve Irwin's Zoo |
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The Village in The Rainforest |
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Radley Oxford, Abingdon, Cheltenham, Belas Knapp,
Cotswolds, Guiting Power, Oxford Castle Medieval Fair |
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Bus lotto in London, the Tower of London, Trafalgar
and Hen racing at the Radley Fete, |
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Oxford City, St Mary The Virgin Church, Christchurch
College, Blenheim Palace, Woodstock, Bourton on the Water |
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The Forest is just beautiful. Soudley, Coleford,
Rhaglan Castle, Newent Gloucestershire, The Shambles Victorian Village,
Chepstow, Symonds Yat, Monmouth, Tintern |
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Journey to Ireland and the adventures of two
mad women on the loose. Corwen, Betws y Coed, Snowdonia mountains,
Anglesey,
Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch
better known as Llanfair pg, Dublin, Amagh, Port Rush, Giants Causeway |
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Boyle, Mullaghroe, Tobercurry, Gorteen County
Sligo, Drumanone Dolmen, Arigna Mine. Ballina, Ceide Fields County
Mayo, Killala, Strokestown, Tulsk, Elphin Windmill, Mullingar, Roscommon
Town, Lough Key |
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From top to bottom what a maginficent place.
Galway, Cnoc Suan, Spidall, Ailwee Caves, The Burren, Listowel,
Valentia, Portmagee, Skellig Michael, Waterford Crystal, Wexford |
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Martha and Adam did a charity walk along an ancient
route, I played chauffeur, did some sightseeing and got stuck in
Swindon. West Wycome, Wayland Smithy, Barbury Castle, Avebury |
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Cardiff Castle, St Fagans |
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Newquay, Boscastle, Museum of Witchcraft, Tintagel,
Lands End, Minack Theatre, Mousehole, Jamaica Inn on Bodmin
Moor |
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Banbury Cross, Coventry City and Cathedral, Spon
Street, Lady Godiva, Althorpe (Lady Dianna Spencer's home) and Manchester |
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Ing near Kendall, Lake Windemere, Gretna Green,
Glencoe, Inchcree, Invergary, Loch Duich, Kyle of Lochalsh, Portree,
Isle of Skye, Kilmuir, Uig, Dunvegan, Dumnadrochit, Loch Ness, Corrimony
Cairn |
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Inverness, Cullodden Battlefield ,Brora, John
O'Groats, Orkney Islands, Flotta, Burwall, Stromness, Skara Brae,
Ring of Brodgar, Standing Stones of Stenness, Kirkwall, Edinburgh
Castle, Cheviot Mountains, Newcastle, Segedunum, Hadrians Wall,
Sandford Loch, London airport, Singapore |
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| Contact
Details |
| My
Mobile Telephone is 0438 318 180 |
| My
Home telephone number is : 07 4031 8181 (61 is country code) |
| Address:
P.O Box 7666, Cairns Qld 4870, Australia |
| Email
Me |
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